day 2: st-privat-d’allier to saugues

The last few days feel like there must have been more of them, because by evening, the morning already feels like it was at least a day ago! So I’m doing some catching up on posting.

The second day of hiking, from Saint-Privat-d’Allier to Saugues, was not as long as the first day – only 19 km (12 miles). But it was more strenuous, descending one side of the Allier gorge and then climbing up the opposite side, with a four-mile stretch where the grade is 10% or higher. It was also warmer than the day before, without much shade.

At one of the high points on the Saint-Privat side, before the descent, are the remains of Rochegude castle (pictured above) built in the 12th century and modified into the 13th century. The tower was a lookout post guarding a popular trade route.

Eventually the trail descends to the bottom of the gorge, to the town of Monistrol-d’Allier.

So, funny thing. Maybe it’s just late in the season, but everything in Monistrol-d’Allier was closed – shops, restaurants, bakery – and apparently reopened Friday. But I’d been planning to stop for lunch there, and none of the other towns I passed through had anything either. Fortunately I had energy bars and other light snacks, but I was dragging by the end of the day.

It’s all uphill from Monistrol-d’Allier, folks!

On the ascent, we passed some rock climbers on the craggy rock face. And a chapel built right into the rock. (I say “we” because I met and hiked with an Australian fellow for the first part of the day. My family finds this hilarious, as my sister met her Aussie partner while walking the Camino in 2018. With the same first name.)

Eventually the climb turned into meadows and farmland again, and I reached Saugues late afternoon. After hitting a supermarket to ensure I didn’t get stuck on the trail with just energy bars again, all I wanted to do was eat and crawl into bed.